Unless you’re using a sponge or a sanding pad between your sander and the paper, you will notice your paper will either have to be cut, or folded to fit properly into the Super Sander Drywall Sanding Tool. Put your paper square on the sanding pole like shown in the video; always keep the side of the paper that's hanging away from your angle so you don’t ding the other side. Start with angles first when finish sanding, and then move on to the nails and then follow with the flats and beads.
Don’t overdue the angle with your sanding, it’s easy to over sand down to the paper, so be careful and go easy, make sure you use a light (Sunlite QF444 500W HALOGEN PORTABLE FIXTURE SUNLITE Work Lamp [04365-SU]) at all times. So you just take some rough out with your finish sander but your final finish will be done with your sanding sponge. When done sanding angles move on to the nails. You should only sand your nails with your sanding pole 3, 4, 5 times at most. Again you could sand the nails to MUCH where they will be dipped, but it’s a lot harder than the angles. Make sure that you’re always looking for any "sluggish" that may have splashed into the field (middle of drywall sheet). To make a professional look you want to keep your sanding pole moving like shown in the video.
Pole Sanding Flat Joints And Butt Joints
We will be showing you how to sand flats and buts. We're going to be using the Sand Paper, Fine 120 Grit 3 5/16" x 11" to sand our flats and buts. Use your 500 watt halogen for this sanding job again, put it right against the wall so it shows you everything on the wall. You want to keep your sanding pole always moving, don't get to close to the sides , you don't need to get close with your sanding pole, we will go back and fix these areas after with your sponge. Keep your sanding pole at an angles as much as you can when your sanding, if you sanding pole is to much in a angle, it will flip, if its not enough at an angle it will leave many scratches. If you watch the movie you will see what I'm talking about. When sanding the flat start with the edges, or at least make sure that you hit the sides real good. I always spread my legs quite a bit so that I have a good footing. When your sanding things that are a little higher where you can't see, a good rule of thumb for the high stuff is " When you think its sanded enough, its not lol so hit it a few more times". If ever you see paper coming through the flat or where it happens more often, at the butt, stop sanding around that area completely, that area will need more mud. Make sure that your always looking for more sluggies that were left behind in the field (Middle of drywall sheet). Don't over sand with you sanding pole, be careful , its easy to sand a little more with your sponge, a lot more work to pull out your hawk and trowel again to coat, dry and sand again. If your getting a lot of scratches in your sanding check your paper, a little nic on the paper could be leaving the scratches in the wall. If you do have a nic you could cut it out with some scissors. Move your light around a lot, keep it right under the area that your working on, bang it off sometimes to clear the dust from the glass. Don't try to be to picky with your pole sanding, it easier to catch the hard to get spots with a sponge. Remember to always wear your 3M 8210Plus Particulate Respirator N95 Mask guys, its a must for drywall.
Pole Sanding Bullnose Bead
We're going to be finish sanding a "bullnoose" round bead. So were using the Sand Paper, Fine 120 Grit 3 5/16" x 11"on our sanding pole,sanding this by hand would look not even or smooth, you need some sort of sanding pole for this. Put your halogen right underneath the bead were your working. Give the side a few extra passes, it usually as a little edge there that needs to be grinded down to a smooth finish. We just want to get this a good sand, but we don't want to spend to much time on it, give it a few passes then move on, if there's anything left behind we'll get it when we light check. When sanding where the bead is, you want to keep sanding until you see the bead coming through the mud.
When the bead start showing through your mud, it looks like a blue line down the side, like shown in the video, stop sanding. You don't want to sand to much where that blue line is, sand to much and there will be a little lip left behind, so when you start seeing that blue line coming thru the mud, you can't sand that area much more. Just leave it behind and we will examine it during light check with our Coleman Cable 5857 Polar/Solar 16/3 SJEO 25-Foot Trouble Light to see if we can buff it out or if we're going tp add more mud. The light doesn't show you much up the wall of course, so make sure you give a couple extra passes at the top part of your bead, just to make sure its sanded enough. I like to do as little light checking as possible, so we get what we can do safely with the sanding pole. Wear your mask guys, take your time its easy to accomplish.
Pole Sanding Ceilings
This is one of the last pole sanding parts, we do ceilings usually at the end, but it don't really matter. This step is a quick step, we really only need to rough up everything that we coated. You don't need to sand this to perfection if your going to put on texture on the ceiling. So when your sanding the ceiling I like to start with the edges, I go around the whole room doing the edges, just a quick pass to remove the big edges and lumps and other stuff. We use the rough paper for the ceiling, its the 100u paper, its petty rough, and it sand fast, so you don't need much sanding, since no one likes to sand ceilings. We don't need to sand the ceiling nails, they are going to be covered with texture. After you sand the angles on the ceiling around the walls, now you need to move on to sanding the flats on the ceiling. You really only need to make sure that you sand everything even with your Super Sander Drywall Sanding Tool, hit the big lumps and rough area a little more, but the texture will hide some. Get the edges of the flat quickly, down the middle quickly again and repeat till your done sanding all the flats and buts. This again should not take too long, when you are done this you should be able to move onto light checking. The how to drywall on light checking is next for you guys, remember always wear you mask when sanding.
About Philippe
I'm 29 years old drywall taper from Edmonton, Alberta. We are proud to show you our videos, and supply all the information you will need to get er done !
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