Steps To Painting Your New Drywall

   The key to a good paint job lies in preparation. About 80 percent of a painting job consist of prep work – moving furniture, protecting surfaces with drop cloths, patching damaged ares, and sanding – while only 20 percent of the work is actually applying the paint. When the job is done, the paint itself is not noticeable as the care taken during the preparation work.

   In a new house, wall and ceiling surfaces are usually in excellent condition, so you can expect to spend about 2 or 3 hours of prep time to every hour of painting. On the other hand, in an older home, which most likely has some cracked plaster, damaged drywall, and built-up paint on the trim, it is not unusual to spend 8 to 10 hours prepping for every hour spent painting. If the job requires patching, plan ample drying time for the mud or joint compound.

   If it is possible to remove all of the furniture from the room, do so. It is easier to move the furniture than it is to work around it. If some furniture must remain int the room, leave at least 4 feet of open space along the walls, and make sure you can reach the entire ceiling.

Final Prep and Sanding

When all wall repairs are made and all wall covering removed, it is time for the final prep and sanding. Wash down walls and woodwork with a household cleaner. this removes any grease or wax that may prevent good adhesion of the paint. Smoke and grease bleed through a new coat of paint, so be sure to prime these areas before painting as part of the final prep work. Set up bright lights to help you work accurately, as well as show all the defects on the wall. Arrange the lights to illuminate the area being worked on and to elimnate shadows. 

Cleaning up. Sanding drywall compound and old paint produces a lot of fine dust that settles on the tops of windows, doors, and baseboard trim. Some will even cling to the walls. Vaccum all surfaces, and wipe them down with a damp cloths.

Masking Hardware And Edges.

Some hardware, such as door locksets and hinges, should be masked before painting starts. You may also want to protect trimwork, such as windows and door casingm baseboards, chair rails,and other trimwork by masking them with a painter's tape.

Use painters tape, it is best to use this tap rather then other types because it has a ligher adhesive. It won't stick to the surface when you remove it. It is easier to apply tape in short sectins rather than trying to place a long piece. 

The Order Of Work 

There are no rules that say a certain part of the room must be painted first, but in general, rooms are painted from the top down. Begin with the ceiling, and if your priming new drywall move right from priming the ceiling to priming the walls.

If you are painting the walls a different color than the ceiling, put one coat on the ceiling, let it dry, and then paint the walls. This way you don't need to be fussy about the joint where the wall and ceiling meet when you are painting the ceiling.  It is OK to get some ceiling paint on the wall because the wall will get a last coat of paint. Just make sure that the ceiling is dry before you tackle the walls. In addition, many people find it easier to cut in a straight line along the top of the wall, as opposed to cutting in along the edge of the ceiling. Of course, cornice molding is a natural divider, so there is no free-form cutting in. If you are adding a second coat, repeat the sequence.

Paint Ceilings With Roller & Brush

Using The Paint Sprayer For Ceilings